We suspect that the grout is cracking due to movement (the shower is installed in a bathroom bump out and over a crawl space, and against two exterior walls—though they were reframed and well insulated during the remodel). I just can’t sit still very long, so amazing friends, let me tell you what I did with that week! Apologies for the long query, but I wanted to provide you with as much info as possible. Next post: Filling Grout Lines with More Grout. I plan on removing the thick grout around the window and replace it with 100% silicone caulk ONLY. Our installer did not seal where tub meets tile/grout. You MAY get away with the tile to tub transition, but if there is excess movement and you have an acrylic tub the tub may actually end up cracking before the tile. Recently I was fortunate enough to have my dream bathroom become a reality.. We hired a licensed contractor do the work. One of the most asked questions by do-it-yourselfer’s is whether they should use caulk or grout in the corners. In no way am I a tile expert, these ideas are only what we researched/found works for how we want to care for our home. We moved into the house in August 2020. I am grateful also that you have confirmed that the silicone caulking may exacerbate the underlying issue and that we need to ensure that any water that may get trapped behind the tile has a path to the drain, even if has to be above the floor. Morphological leveling. Hi Rodger , I’m a newbie that just found the your super helpful Site . If one tiled surface meets another at a different angle, it should be caulked or siliconed. Take A Sneak Peak At The Movies Coming Out This Week (8/12) “Look for the helpers” – Celebrities helping out amid Texas storm All the cool kids are doin’ it. That simply means that if you are using sanded grout you cannot butt the tiles against each other at the corner and expect to be able to force grout into it. That’s why you need to have everything waterproofed correctly before any tile is installed. Was leaning towards the Mapei Flexcolor CQ or Fusion Pro. I don’t go out to stores much … There are a couple of things that must be taken into consideration before choosing this method. It held for a couple of months and then happened again, so installer asked the plumber who installed the fixtures and pipes for the shower system to verify that the water was not coming from the plumbing or fixtures—all looks good. It is just best to use silicone at all changes of plane for your project. The good news is by day 3, no more water had seeped out and the grout now seems dry. This haze is proving extremely difficult to remove, especially because it’s on marble and acids are a no-no. In our first home I chose a solid onyx base-loved it, fantastically solid. My guess would be that he installed a bead of silicone at the bottom of the wall for some ridiculous reason. if you are unfortunate to have a base issue and have to replace it. Can I silicone the next day. Do you grout everything, including the corners, then go back and scrap out the grout in the corners, then apply silicone? Best HD/Lowe’s grout suggestion for those and I think I’m set. But one sometimes chooses what the budget allows. I assume at least one on each wall, or perhaps two along the longer (~5 ft) wall (the opposing side is a knee wall w/a niche, and a glass door). Paint won’t stick to silicone caulk and most polyurethane caulkings. You’ll need to keep it clean and dry regularly or you’ll have issues with it. I would think the latasil would be the better option but would have to order online. I’d use sanded caulk for porcelain and non sanded caulk on glass type tile. A local company measured the space and mixed their formula for an exact fit shower base, I love these too. So again, my husband repeated his repair process. While there are pros and cons of each, I am in the camp that uses caulk. Because the water in the wall NEEDS to have a path to the drain. I am using the Aquadefense to waterproof the entire shower. It is likely Serratia marcescens, which is a type of water-borne bacteria. We have tried cleaning with baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, bubbling bathroom cleaner and Clorox and it has not done the trick. Newsletter sign up. I am new to running my own tiling business and want to use Spectralock 1 grout on all my jobs–it is a new Laticrete pre-mix with epoxy strength. The thresholds work well, you can ‘polish’ the edge of the threshold by coating it with an enhancing sealer, or sanding it (orbital or vibrating sander) with progressive grits up to about 2000 or so, the shine will match the finished surface. Sadly, in our case, it seems that the water was not properly making its way behind/under the tile to the drain, and thus after time, forcing its way past the grout (or sanded caulk) in that one corner. Caulk comes in two forms: a cartridge or a squeeze tube. However if you install glass type tiles one needs a non sanded grout. Second question is the debate on whether to caulk or grout the gap between the wall tile and shower floor tile. You will need to remove the old grout. I have no knowledge regarding how your shower base was installed. You seem pretty confident that epoxy will be okay in the corners. It will not stay if the grout has no grout line to hold onto – if it is simply attempting to grab onto the face of the tiles at a 90 degree angle. In any case, I hired a local tile contractor who stated that his process is to grout the entire shower, and then apply a clear silicone caulk over the grout at all changes in plane (including in the niches)–which has been done. Roger, It a foam so it has time to work rather than just run off. You'll always get the best results when you use caulk that's designed for your project's specific conditions. Would like some sort of shelf. He did NOT use any silicone caulk. I’m backwards like that. Placing caulk over grout in the corners will just lead to cracked grout in the corners that can not fall out – but it’ll still be cracked. The better solution, and the one I recommend, is to remove ALL the grout in every change of plane then silicone them all leaving weep holes.The location of at least one of those should be close to that corner. I I’ve bin all over this website but after finding you I can final stop ……thanks for your time Rodger , Jeff. So although extra care must be taken to properly use grout at your plane changes, the advantages for some people are worth the extra time. Do you have a traditional liner mud bed (the two layers with a liner between)? Choosing the right type of caulk and application method doesn't have to be confusing though. The gaps are 3/16”. The second “repair” lasted about 3 months when last week I noticed that once again the grout was staying wet in that corner as compared to the rest of the shower; the moisture seems to be wicking up about 2-3” from the corner, and also across the bottom towards the right. So we thought it might be a good idea to clear up … It seems like an absolute win for the customer who REALLY hates cleaning caulk. (the sanded vs. non-sanded actually doesn’t have anything to do with it.) Siliconing over the grout will only exacerbate the situation as it seals the grout and does not allow it to dry out through the grout lines – it traps more moisture. If you would like to understand more about the chemistry, manufacture, physical characteristics, and some tips for re-enforcing, coloring, dangers, and proper disposal, please read on. It’s simply cylindrical foam used to fill empty space before caulking. Video Below: This video is also available on YouTube here: If you only want the instructions for mixing Plaster of Paris please go directly to the video. Much has happened since I first posted my query. The only two disadvantages to using caulk instead of grout are that you need to periodically remove and replace the caulk and, depending on your choice of grout, you may not be able to find a caulk that matches exactly. What about wall to wall (perpendicular to each other)? The fact that water is collecting there isn’t a major issue unless there’s evidence that the water is also getting into the framing behind that area (which would indicate no, or inadequate, waterproofing in that area. 2) Regarding the change of plans, can I still leave a gap of 1/8 inch at the corner tiles and fill with 100% white silicone (grout will be white) or do you recommend a butt joint? 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